El Potrero Chico 2023, We Came Back for More!

Early in 2023, Jess and I decided to give EPC a shot.  We had thumbed through the famous guidebook multiple times, taking it on and off our shelf. But, we had also heard a lot of warning about safety, which had us putting it off as a serious destination.  Ultimately, safety ended up being a non-issue, the area we stayed in ended up being super poche, and it ended up being one of our favorite climbing destinations ever.  I mean, what’s not to like about 20 pitch bolted routes and some of the best food in Latin America?  [..]

Monkey Face, Pioneer Route

Labor Day weekend usually marks our last hoorah in the alpine for the year.  It’s a nice long weekend, the weather is usually still nice, and the offices are still in “summer break mode”.  And while 2 of those things were true this year, the weather was not forecasting to be good.  Our treasured and coveted long weekend Eldorado Backcountry Zone permit was as useless as a keychain carabiner.  And while our alpine plans were ruined, we had a few ideas in our mind for Smith.  The Pioneer Route was high on the list.  And while not super techy for a crag day, we were really intrigued by the concept of getting to the top of the notable Monkey Face.  Not to mention the intrigue of climbing a big bolt ladder- something I had never done. [..]