Mt. Stuart, Complete North Ridge

Technical climbing info

  • Mountain: Mount Stuart
  • Elevation: 9,415ft
  • Route: Complete North Ridge
  • Length: 2800ft
  • Grade: V, 5.9+

I didn’t sit down to take the time to write anything after this climb, so this entry is more of a photo dump with a bit of commentary. Stuart’s North Ridge definitely earns its spot as a Cascades ultra-classic in my book. Thanks Alan Rousseau for leading this climb, one of the coolest guys in the mountains out there!

We moved quick through the morning to cover a good bit of terrain. Here we are looking over the Stuart’s north side glaciers, pretty easy traveling.
Alan and me taking a moment to collect some very dirty glacial water. We later dumped this brown liquid gold for much more desirable clear liquid gold.
Scrambling up the base of the ridge to the first pitch.
Alan leading up our first pitch through a little bush.
Awesome crack climbing to start things off! Keep on rockin!
And up go the packs.
Found a shoe… Somebody is going to have a crappy descent…
Beautiful day! Traversing a bit with some epic exposure below.
Cool moves!
The rest of the day was a ton of super enjoyable type 1 fun simulclimbing!
Home for the evening, the beauty almost makes one forget that this area is swarming with rats.
Right before calling it a night, I climbed up as high as I could safely and snapped a photo. Also found a bonus ultra old hex and an AirPods case.
Good morning! Climbing up and over our bivy.
Climbing over a traversey section, very aesthetic.
The aesthetics just don’t stop giving!
Getting to the upper section of the peak, spectacular.
Yup, still continuing to love it!
Making our way over the top of the huge granite slabs below.
Final pitch!
Summit! Awesome day!
We ran down the Cascadian Couloir, and up and over the lower hills back to our car. See ya later, Stuart!

Big thanks to Stowaway Gourmet for supporting my 2022 climbing season! This is a brand that I fell in love with prior to my official partnership with them. These are by far the absolute best backcountry meals I’ve ever had, and I’m psyched to be eating them all year! Check out my meal reviews here!

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