Ecuador 5-6000M Technical Peaks

With 5000-6000m peaks just degrees from the equator, climbers on these peaks should expect bad weather.  I was taught this the hard way when I first came to Ecuador to climb the normal routes of Cayame, Antisana, and Cayambe.  Once I got home from that climb, I bought quite a few new layers to prepare me for those sorts of conditions.  Coming back the next time aiming for much harder routes, I knew I would need to come prepared.

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Updated: 2024

Top Layers

  • Patagonia Tropic Comfort Hoody
  • Arc’teryx Proton LT
  • Arc’teryx Alpha AR
  • Mountain Hardwear Ghostwhisperer Hoody x2
  • Mountain Hardwear Phantom Parka

Bottom Layers

  • Arc’teryx Beta AR Pants
  • Arc’teryx Gamma LT Pants
  • Icebreaker 260 Tech Thermal Leggings

Feet

  • La Sportiva G5 Boots (<5500m)
  • La Sportiva G2 SM (>5500m)
  • Smartwool PhD Mountaineering Socks

Hands

  • Outdoor Research Extravert Gloves
  • Arc’teryx Fission SV Gloves
  • Outdoor Research Baker Mitts (w/ Alti Mitts liners)

Technical Climbing Gear

  • Grivel North Machine Carbon Ice Tools
  • Petzl Sarken Crampons
  • Petzl Sitta Harness
  • Black Diamond Vector Helmet
  • DMM Pivot ATC
  • DMM Phantom HMS Locking Carabiner
  • Petzl Ange L Carabiners
  • Mammut Contact Slings
  • Petzl Ice Clippers
  • Grivel Spring Leash
  • 2x Beal Gully 7.3mm 60m Rope
  • 5x Petzl Laser Speed Light Ice Screws
  • Black Diamond Ultralight Camalots
  • 3x Aluminum pickets (available in Huaraz for cheap)

Personal Gear

  • Hyperlite Mountain Gear Prism Backpack
  • Mountain Hardwear Expedition Duffel
  • Julbo Explorer 2.0 Glacier Glasses
  • Black Diamond Alpine Carbon Z Poles
  • Feathered Friends Lark UL 10

If a high camp is required:

  • Samaya Assault 2 Ultra Tent
  • Hyperlite Mountain Gear 4400 Ice Pack
  • Thermarest NeoAir Xtherm

Electronics

  • Petzl Swift RL Headlamp
  • Garmin InReach Mini
  • Iridium Extreme Satellite Phone
  • Gaia GPS app