There are plenty of phenomenal snow and ice alpine “mini-expeditions” in the Cordillera Blanca. Initially most expeditions are supported by donkey, but to get up higher on climbers must go unsupported. Bad weather, technical climbing, and long routes, all spell for requiring good gear. I’ve learned the hard way that these peaks can get pretty darn cold!
Related:
- Cordillera Blanca 2019, Redemption
- Tocllaraju, West Face Direct
- Yanapaccha, West Face
- Huarapasca, South Route
- Vallunaraju, SW Route
- First Ascent: Epicing on Urus Este’s West Face
- Cordillera Blanca 2018, Death & Failure
- Artesonraju, The North Ridge
- Ishinca Valley 2017 + getting high with the Altitude Junkies
Updated: 2024
Top Layers
- Patagonia Tropic Comfort Hoody
- Arc’teryx Proton LT
- Arc’teryx Alpha AR
- Mountain Hardwear Ghostwhisperer Hoody x2
- Mountain Hardwear Phantom Parka
Bottom Layers
- Arc’teryx Beta AR Pants
- Arc’teryx Gamma LT Pants
- Icebreaker 260 Tech Thermal Leggings
Feet
- La Sportiva G2 SM
- Smartwool PhD Mountaineering Socks
Hands
- Outdoor Research Extravert Gloves
- Arc’teryx Fission SV Gloves
- Outdoor Research Baker Mitts (w/ Alti Mitts liners)
Technical Climbing Gear
- Grivel North Machine Carbon Ice Tools
- Petzl Sarken Crampons
- Petzl Sitta Harness
- Black Diamond Vector Helmet
- DMM Pivot ATC
- DMM Phantom HMS Locking Carabiner
- Petzl Ange L Carabiners
- Mammut Contact Slings
- Petzl Ice Clippers
- Grivel Spring Leash
- 2x Beal Gully 7.3mm 60m Rope
- 8x Petzl Laser Speed Light Ice Screws
- 10x Aluminum pickets (available in Huaraz for cheap)
Personal Gear
- Hyperlite Mountain Gear Prism Backpack
- Mountain Hardwear Expedition Duffel
- Julbo Explorer 2.0 Glacier Glasses
- Black Diamond Alpine Carbon Poles
- Feathered Friends Lark UL 10
- Thermarest NeoAir Therm
Tents and stoves are available in Huaraz for rental. Flying with fuel is not permitted by any airlines. Canister stoves seem to have compatibility issues with the stoves available in Huaraz for some reason.
Electronics
- Petzl Swift RL Headlamp
- Garmin InReach Mini
- Iridium Extreme Satellite Phone