Mt. Hood, Early Spring

Mount Hood presents some fantastic winter climbing routes in the Cascades.  It is one of the few “big mountains” in the range that is consistently accessible.  While all routes are somewhat technical, classic routes like the Pearly Gates and Leuthold Couloir do not require a full gamut of technical gear.


Updated: May, 2020

Top Layers

  • Icebreaker Sphere T-shirt or Hoodie
  • Arc’teryx Aptin Zip Hoody
  • Arc’teryx Cerium LT
  • Mountain Hardwear Ghostwhisperer Hoody

Bottom Layers

  • Mountain Hardwear Dragon Pants


  • La Sportiva G5
  • Smartwool PhD Mountaineering Socks


A selection of:

  • Outdoor Research Extravert Gloves
  • Outdoor Research Stormtracker Gloves
  • Outdoor Research Arete Gloves
  • Outdoor Research Alti Mitt 

Technical Climbing Gear

  • Petzl Gully Hammer & Adze (or Grivel North Machines if technical)
  • Petzl Sarken Crampons
  • Petzl Altitude Harness
  • Black Diamond Vector Helmet
  • Beal Ice Line 30m (or Opera 60m)
  • DMM Phantom HMS Locking Carabiners
  • Petzl Ange S Carabiners
  • Mammut Contact Slings (30cm, 60cm)
  • Petzl Laser Speed Light Ice Screw(s) (short is good)
  • SMC Snow Picket(s)

Personal Gear

  • Arc’teryx Alpha FL45
  • Julbo Explorer 2.0 Glacier Glasses
  • Black Diamond Alpine Carbon Poles
  • Feathered Friends Hummingbird UL 20
  • Thermarest NeoAir Xtherm
  • MSR Reactor 1.5L Stove
  • Mountain Hardwear Direkt2 Tent 


  • Petzl Tikka+ Headlamp
  • Garmin Fenix 5s
  • Garmin inReach Mini