Forbidden Peak, West Ridge in smoke

One of the considerations I have had for a long time has been spending a summer season climbing a bunch of alpine routes close to home. The irony of me leaving for peaks abroad during the core of the climbing season here has never been lost on me.  For that, I have never actually had the time to climb in the Boston Basin.[...]

Cordillera Blanca 2018, Death & Failure

Planning my return to the Cordillera Blanca, something in my gut felt off a few weeks before heading out. So much so that a month before flying out I dramatically reduced the length of my trip without really any good reason. Maybe I felt that my success rate of 100% in South America the previous [...]

Mt. Rainier, Fuhrer Finger + overnight at Crater Camp

We got a nice late start at 5am to begin our approach up to the base of the Fuhrer Finger. We had blue skies overhead, but the weather forecast upgraded our possibility of storms from “slight chance” to just regular “chance”. Across the horizon, Mount Adams and Mount Saint Helens were already covered with storm clouds as well. Taking a chance on the “chance”, we made the call to move up. If a storm did start to come in, we’d just have to figure something out.[...]

Op-ed: Not getting sick on Rainier

One of the most frequently asked questions I get from new climbers eyeing Mount Rainier is about altitude sickness.  Altitude sickness is one of those things that looms over most new climbers before their first big climbs.  Rainier also happens to be many budding alpinists' first big climb. First thing's first, short of trying to [...]